2/28/13

Despite my good intentions, I don’t seem to get the opportunity to blog or use the miracle of Skype to call anyone from home that I’m missing. Our power has been going out pretty much daily, sometimes for several days at a time. We asked about it and were told it was accidental, but it keeping going off and coming back on right on the hour or half hour. Alas my digitally powered pen and technologically enhanced voice are silenced. The one power company here has been getting millions and millions of dollars from foreign donors and the government to update it's infrastructure over the past few years. Apparently most of that has gone into bonuses for the CEOs, paying for their company supplied mansions, and paying for their own personal state of the art power generators at these mansions. Reminds me of our bank bail-outs. The government just announced that the incompetence of the power company might bring the entire country to a new state of financial ruin within the next few years. Without a complete overhaul of the current system things look dire. Luckily they have been in negotiations with the World Bank, who will of course step in to save the day and give a mountain of money to make it all better. That is if any of that money ends up going where it is intended for. The World Bank will require their usual stipulations that the Tanzanians open up the energy market to “competition” with foreign companies. Have you ever seen an ant compete with an anteater? All I can say is, something’s gotta give. A city haphazardly built somewhat attempting to mimic the northern European model cannot function without power.

 My air conditioner and water don’t function without power and meanwhile I've been down yet again with a heat and toxin related illness. It arose after spend all night without power, awake, sweating in the heat and breathing in thick suffocating clouds from a giant trash fire. I've got a nasty rash-like heat induced something all over my neck, thick yellow mucus, nausea and dizziness. Fun stuff. Thankfully I've got a giant box of yincare to keep the skin stuff at bay and I happened to bring along the perfect Chinese herbal formula for my current conundrum. I love Chinese Medicine.

I haven't searched out an herbalist around these parts. It's not easy in a city of 4 million with no infrastructure to find a decent herbalist. There certainly isn’t any nature around from which to pick herbs. I also discovered during my research that the form of herbal medicine here in Dar es salaam has an interesting belief system. They feel that leaving their herbs on trash heaps and compost piles until it starts to rot makes it more potent. This isn’t just metaphorical, apparently they actually aim to supercharge the herbs. It relates to the observation that life comes from death. I find it an interesting philosophy, but I have no desire to take their medicine. Luckily up in Lushoto (mountains) they have a more sophisticated herbal tradition and some good healers I have been invited to meet. Just need to hold in there a little while longer.

The local water supply. It runs outside of our compound, and our waste water flows into it. I was a bit startled the first time I saw a neighbor dipping in for drinking water. 85% of the city has no running water and relies on ditches like this or local water taps that seldom work.

Tuk Tuks are the easiest way to get around, but incredibly dangerous. These guys drive like madmen. 

I don't know when we can leave yet. We are waiting for Mariko to get her residence permit. Unfortunately it is an epic endeavor. There are mythical trials including evil witches (can also be spelled with a B), corrupt petty bureaucratic warlords, constantly changing riddles and requirements, and astronomical fees that raise day by day with no warning. Poor girl has had to go there 5 times so far and every time they are incredibly mean and rude and corrupt. Maybe today we will find out when we can leave town. We should have found out yesterday but they decided to add on a new $50 fee only payable in US dollars and didn't let anyone know or post anything about it anywhere. Yep, interesting times, learning patience and learning what it's like living in the bureaucratic heart of one of the world poorest and most corrupt governments.   

Hanging out at the local corner store. The pineapples and mangoes are delicious.

This is the little tiny closet sized shack of one of my neighbors. Their 2 1/2 year old boy is my buddy. Every time I walk by we wave at each other and smile and laugh. It's nice to have a friend. He has a little car made of a plastic water bottle and another little water bottle boat he sometimes plays with in the gutter. They don't have room to sit in their house, and it's all corrugated metal so it is probably hellishly hot, so they use the dirt street as their living room. It's nice to see them out there braiding hair, playing, resting and preparing food. A very domestic scene. I hope my little buddy finds a way out of the shanty town.

A few old masks from the wood carvers market where Stoney came from. 

Che Guevara and Bob Marley, patron saints of Tuk Tuk drivers and motorcyclists.

Stay Tuned... good developments, brighter days, and the beauty and culture of Tanzania begin in our next episode.