Thursday, January 31, 2013

A common thread, a mild obsession.

There is one thing that connects us all. Well actually many things connect us all, but there isone that is the most tangible and tasty. One thing that you can talk about anytime, with anyone, and get a visceral reaction. Talking about the weather never made someone drool, it never made a stomach rumble. Only talking about food has that magical power of communicating to both the body and mind. So today let's talk about food. Not just any food, but my favorite food. The pancake.

I've been called many things over the years. More recently I have no idea what most of them mean. My Swahilli is still just budding. One of the most flattering has been Pancake Master. It's not just an innate skill to make a pancake out of almost anything that gave me that moniker. It has taken taken a lifetime of practice and experimentation. When did this all begin you might wonder? I think it started in boy scouts when I got an award for my pancakes, and the praise of my scout master for making what he called the "perfect pancake". I still remember watching it's surface bubble up and saw in my minds eye the golden brown that lay hidden on the other side next to the hot griddle. At that moment I fell in love with pancakes. Little did he know that was just the humble beginnings of a lifelong obsession. A few years later I watched a show on TV about what lumber jacks ate for breakfast. What I saw was amazing, they ate colossal teetering stacks of pancakes with huge log jams of bacon on the side to hold back a waterfall of maple syrup. At that moment I wanted nothing more than to be a lumber jack. So where is all this rambling about pancakes and lumber jacks headed and what does it have to do with Tanzania or medicine? All this is just an appetizer for a new and monumental discovery. A brand new pancake.

Mariko just looked over my shoulder and said, "You are silly, but I appreciate your pancakes." So true. 


These delicious breakfast treats are made with all local ingredients. Feel free to try this at home.

Begin with Ugali flour. This is probably the most common staple food for Tanzanian villagers. It is a finely ground white corn flour that is usually mixed with water and cooked into a paste which you can eat with most any meal. A traditional breakfast is ugali porridge. Dinner is a thicker ugali paste eaten with vegis or when you can afford it some meat.  Most people eat ugali with their fingers, so I made these pancakes in a crepe fashion for all you finger food fans.

Corn is not indigenous to Africa, so how did it get here and become a staple food so far from it's origins in the new world? Most historians theorize that it was introduced by the Portugese into the costal regions as early as the 1500's. According to Marvin P. Miracle in the Journal of African History;

"Maize was probably introduced to tropical Africa at more than one point and at different times. Maize was widely grown along the coast from the River Gambia to Sao Tome, around the mouth of the River Congo, and possibly in Ethiopia, in the sixteenth century. There is reference to it in all these places, in Zanzibar, and around the mouth of the River Ruvuma in the seventeenth century; and it was not only mentioned but described as an important foodstuff and a major provision for slave ships between Liberia and the Niger Delta during the same century. Much less information is available for the interior, but it clearly seems to have been unknown in Uganda as late as 1861. Until well within the present century, it was neither a major export nor a mainstay of the diet in most of eastern and central tropical Africa, the bulk of the areas where it is now of major importance."

I digress, we were talking about pancakes not history.
Mix 1/4 cup ugali flour with 3 white yolked eggs. Blend well.


White yolk eggs were quite a surprise to me at first. I'm used to the yellow variety. These little pale beauties are relatively tasteless, which can be great for any of you who abhor the taste of egg. Why are they white? I have no idea. I couldn't find any definitive answer in my brief research into their edibility and nutritional value. Some egg specialist say it can be genetic or it can be due to the diet of the chickens. I'm guessing it could be either. Do the chickens I see running though the streets raised on white corn and city trash make white eggs? I guess so.



I think my eggs might come from our neighbors chickens.












Mix with a teaspoon of sunflower oil and a 1/4 to 1/2 cup boxed milk. Don't even think of using fresh milk, it only comes warm and packaged for a long shelf life in a handy box.





Make the batter thin so you can easily spread it across the bottom of the pan. These pancakes come off best as crepes.

Cook over medium heat until toasty brown.










The best part is the fresh fruit. Mangoes are my favorite, but Pineapples and bananas are tasty too.












According to Mariko, she has never seen a Tanzanian pancake made from these local staples foods. Now she sees them most every morning. They just keep getting better too as new innovations in batter mixing and cooking times develop.














Please enjoy responsibly.


Tuesday, January 29, 2013

Greetings from Tanzania!


Greetings from Tanzania!

My lady and I made it to Dar es Salaam and found a nice little apartment to settle into for a couple months while she does research in the city.

Jet lagged, hot, sweaty and happy.

 As luck would have it, we "randomly" got a place that ended up being owned by a professor who runs the institute which my girlfriend is being supported by. We showed up to move in and asked who our neighbor in the compound was and were introduced to the professor and his large and friendly family. It turns out he had a stroke a few weeks back and wanted to try acupuncture to improve his recovery time. I've been working with him a few times so far, and he loves it. I’ve also started treating one of his wives for diabetes and I have a growing list of friends and family who want treatments as well. Every time I go next door to treat I meet new ministers and more of the local ruling class. Not what I was looking for, and not necessarily who I would like my work to be limited to in the long run, but they are curious about Oriental medicine so perhaps this little auspicious coincidence will bear fruit in connections to local medical organizations. Who knows. My place is just to ride these little waves, treat whoever needs my services, and see if it turns into opportunities to teach acupuncture and moxa to those who need it most. 

So far it's taken some time to get used to the unique climate here in the city; hot, sweaty, crowded and dirty. It is strange coming from the high snow-filled mountains only a week and a half ago. Seems like a different lifetime. If it wasn't a dirty crazy hot city I might be tempted to stay in Dar and set something up. Our plan is to live here in the city for a few months, after which we are trying to make it up to the Usambara mountains where it is cooler and we can enjoy nature and the peace of village life. Mariko lived in a tiny village in these mountains for two years and has been dreaming of them ever since. I’m told it is one of the most peaceful places she has ever been. I can’t wait to see it. There is a little clinic out there that serves the area. I’m hoping to be able to set up a relationship with them and see if I can do some training there. There are still many unknowns about how the medical part of this journey will unfold, yet we just arrived and already everything seems to be continually falling into place.

It is my hope to get out of the city and into the wild for a few days in the next couple weeks. I want to meet a hippo and bask in the new set of equatorial stars. That adventure comes next. Our current one is set in a little bubble amidst shanty towns, with tuk tuks zooming around, constant chaotic traffic jams and a teeming sea of human life. 

The view from my bedroom window. Poverty and relative wealth sit side-by-side. Our side is protected by a big fence with sharp spikes on it and guards lounging under the trees 24hrs a day. At night "the dog" is brought in. He sounds like a real beast. I saw where they kept the dogs at another house we looked at. Tiny little concrete boxes in the sun with small air-holes in a metal grate from which a frothing and barking set of jaws would poke out when I passed. I hope our guard dog has a better life.

Fortunately the Tanzanians are incredibly nice and welcoming. Compared to many places in Africa it's safe here. We still have to live in a guarded compound, but we get lots of hellos and smiles every time we venture out. As I type I can hear drumming off in the neighborhoods close by. Yesterday we found it’s source. A little shack with a wide open dirt yard filled with older Tanzanians dancing and singing up a storm. Another little gem to explore in the coming days.

My daily walk to the market for fresh vegetables and fruit takes me through the traditional woodworkers market. It is a several block row of little stalls filled to the brim with “ebony” elephants, statues of Masai warriors and carved masks. I made my first purchase of local art from a nice and talented woodworker named William. I had no intention of buying a rhino, but William was so nice, and so hungry, and the rhino was so full of character I couldn’t resist.




His name is Stony Tangawizi.

I will keep you updated on our adventures. Mariko, Stoney and I feel so fortunate to have this incredible opportunity and I am happy to have you join us.

Much sweaty and sincere love from Tanzania.